On and On

Capitol Reef National Park. Ahh!

White knuckle driving out of town last weekend.

The gal who cut my hair.

After the hair cut.

Before the hair cut!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.

Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net http://www.arcteryx.com/ http://camp-usa.com/ http://sterlingrope.com/ http://coloradomountainjournal.com/ http://www.wunderground.com/ http://climbing.com/ http://rockandice.com/ http://deadpointmag.com/ http://urbanclimbermag.com/ http://andrewburr.com/ http://ladzinski.com/

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 12 (Ghost Kitchen)

Group discussion this morning was on the mental game. What are those self limiting beliefs that are floating around in your noggin which are stopping you progressing your climbing? How might they be  serving you? How can you change them? Fear of falling may be in there, but often it's only a part. What about expectations? What about worrying what others think? So we discussed the importance of training mental toughness, why falls are a non-avoidable ingredient in climbing progression and some strategies we can use to reduce anxiety and truly enjoy the act of climbing on lead. This is the good stuff! Love it. [If this is stuff you're interested in, there's a couple of good books (like this and this) or you could join us sometime and get hands on.]

So, after me scrounging builders rubbish to build a bosun's chair (pic of field testing below), we jumped in the car and blitzed to Ghost Kitchen. GK offers some quality vert walls, gently overhung tufa madness, and the best warm down slabs on the island.

This would also be the crag we would test out our new CU belay glasses. Guaranteed to make you look like a Professor of Belaying (PBe) and a complete dork, these unusual prism-based glasses allow you to see directly upwards without tilting your head. This allows you to watch your climber while maintaining a relaxed stance. It's a tradeoff of fashion sense versus neck pain. Verdict: crystal clear and pretty awesome. Bloody expensive though (about $120 AUD). If you buy three it's free shipping and no tax which brings the price down some.

Dave and Ruth reaquainted themselves with Joy In The Garden 6a after Andy's onsight while Lena and Ronsley did Achilles 5c+. Warm ups over, I belted up the main wall and commenced hanging from my fencepost with the camera. Andy was up on the sweet Remember Wadi Rum 6c which just has the most crazy tufas and blobs.

It was a valiant onsight attempt, foiled with a slip of the foot on the finale, resulting on Andy wizzing down the tufa curtain. Second shot there were no such mistakes. Tick tick for Andy "I'm a delicate flower" Lightfoot! Dave got inspired by that effort, and girding himself in his Upskill kneepads, he proceeded to knee his way up the route. It was rediculous the amount of solid kneebars he found! He was however overcome by the unusual outtro sequence and took flight. By this time the sun was on the wall and a second try was off the cards.

Dave, Ruth and Lena enjoyed the nearby Delta 6a+, and my vantage point out in space on my fencepost afforded me some unexpectedly good angles and I snapped some great shots like this one of Lena. Perhaps my fave shot of this trip so far?

We then headed down to the "skateboard slab" which hosts some great very slabby, smooth and pocketed slabs. One day I'll bring a skateboard and see if it's possible to drop in and ride it out on abseil. I slammed the draws up on Persephone 6b in my sneakers (my new hobby; 7a is my best so far), and nearly everyone climbed it clean I think. Lena absolutely killed it on the slabs, with first try clean topropes of Parasitos 6a+ and Zyklop 6a+. Sam flashed Zyklop which was notable for it's un-Kalymnian-runout-ness.

And then came Serena. "6b? I'm calling bullshit on that!" Dave had been spat off the top section of this awkward number on the last camp. Rematch time. Using good tactics ("Nah mate, I won't ruin your onsight!"), he sent Andy up to put the draws on. With his reach like a sick dog, Andy grunted his way through the overhang and with difficulty, got himself into a position to clip the anchor. Draw on. Pull rope. Go for clip. Fumble. Draw swinging. Try again. Fumble. Swear. Draw swinging in a mocking, "you can't catch me" manner. More swearing. Final scathing stare at the anchor. Fall. Noooooooooo! It was in the bag!

Suitably padded up, Dave jumped on, cruised the slab and engaged the steepness, finding some no-hander kneebars. Up in the business, Andy passed on the crucial beta "Stick your arm up there like you're helping a cow give birth!" Dave had clipped the final bolt then started to gibber. ("I only had about five seconds left!"). He then somehow wrangled double kneebars which gave him enough juice to clip the tricksy anchor. Yeah boy! What will you be doing at 60? :)

Today's fun fact:

To the belayer of a top-roping climber, a red upturned helmet on the ground broadcasts thusly: Dave has initiated a game of pebble basketball. Would you like to play? You have selected...yes.

Capitol Reef National Park

Mike B on a zig zagging 5.11 crack. This one is found in the Grand Wash and is about a 2 minute approach. Classic.

Steph Davis on a nice 12+ splitter. This crack is also in the Grand Wash and is as good as they get for this size. Steph crushed the route easily after her knee surgery months ago.

The Capitol Reef visitor center. Be sure to stop in and get some fresh pies!

Mike B making breakfast on a cool morning in the park. For 10 bucks a night it's quiet and you are right in the middle of everything in the park. Clean bathrooms and friendly folks and hundreds of fruit trees.

Mike B on his overhanging 35meter hand crack. It's awesome! Some easy face/crack climbing at the beginning leads to a beautiful 20 foot overhung handcrack out the dihedral. It is just a minute from the road (Grand Wash).

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.

Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.

Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:http://www.scarpa.nethttp://www.arcteryx.comhttp://camp-usa.comhttp://sterlingrope.comhttp://ColoradoMountainJournal.comhttp://www.wunderground.comhttp://climbing.comhttp://rockandice.comhttp://deadpointmag.comhttp://urbanclimbermag.comhttp://andrewburr.comhttp://ladzinski.com

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 11 (Odyssey)

Welcome to the fifth day of climbing for this group here in sunny Kalymnos.

Sam on the walk-in to Odyssey, while Ruth cranks in the background.

Funny stuff with Ruth today on the slippery and tricky Femio 6a+ (pictured above). It's stiff - no gimme for the 6a+/19 grade. Because of its position it gets tons of traffic and is therefore super polished. Ruth gave it one burn and had plenty of rests and claimed "There's no way I'm leading this, it's just too slippery!" After sorting things out on toprope a couple of times, she was suddenly tying in for the lead. What the? Ruth is highly vocal when climbing and if she's thinking it up there, she's saying it. So we get a great insight into what's going on in her head as she's climbing, and yet me tell you, there was a lot of self-doubt and uncertainty during this lead! We've all been there. To Dave's great credit, he played his role of belayer (i.e. climber supporter) perfectly and was able to help Ruth make her way through the doubts and push through to the anchors and her hardest lead climb. Congrats Ruth! From now on I suggest less judging what you can't do, and being more curious as to what you can do. There's so much ability there waiting to be unleashed...

This little orange domino spider (not the technical name) was way cool.

Dave decided on the tough Itaca 6c (perhaps more like 7a?) as something to get a workout on. He'd been on it on the 2008 trip and in this shot (above), tries like hell to remember the sequence. On his second burn, he went all the way through, skipped the last bolt, only to fall on the final hard move. A very near thing, and 100% energy output. Just what we want - awesome!

With that kind of effort, you get special personal shade privileges. All part of the Upskill Service ®.

Andy's day proj was Dionysos 7a. I put the gear on, ticked up some holds for him and then gave the beta rundown. He fell on the last move on the flash. Effort! On the second shot, same deal - that powerful final move! He woke up the next day sore across the back and shoulders and is now booked in for a massage.

Another day, another shot of Telendos. I never get sick of it.

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 10 (Dolphin Bay)

We awoke to another perfect day. After our big day at Poets, we aimed to downshift and do some volume. On the menu was the rather unassuming looking Dolphin Bay. Located on a headland near Kastelli, this white marble cliff requires either a steep scramble on scree, or an abseil to access. We chose the abseil for some extra spice. Some of the group hadn't abseiled for ages, so we did some rigging practice and set up different methods with autoblocks, Grigris, ATC's, munter hitches etc. All good learning.

While the cliff looks a bit ho-hum, it hides some real gems. The easy routes here are of great quality and during 2009, a whole stack of new routes got bolted, so there's now about 40 to choose from.

Ronsley and Lena really enjoyed their time on Wisteria Lane 5c+ to begin the day. A great route on featured white marble with an overhang to overcome up top. Lena in particular really styled it. I went crazy with the camera all day as the blue background of the ocean contrasted so starkly against the white rock. I love sea cliffs! I'm going to not write much and instead let the pics do the talking...

Andy against the sea on Trokrakhan 6a+

Sam put in a great effort to flash the sequency Baklava Maniac 6b. Ronsley also really enjoyed this route. His route of the day. He did seven routes I think.

Ruth battled through and redpointed Trokrakhan 6a+. I like this landscape shot.

Me playing around on the slippery Kalymnian Lightning 6b+. And for the record, no, this is not photoshopped.

Dave and I had fun on this route. It's mostly an overhung crack route up slick polished limestone. Being down quite close to the water, it cops the salt spray, and the main challenge of the route was to not have your feet blow off the holds as you laybacked with various levels of desperation. Dave was blowing like a chimney up there with his feet skittering around like a cartoon character. You can see the steam coming out of his ears in this next shot...

Nearly there Dave!

The furthest left route on the wall necessitated belaying from a low rock platform. You can see Sam down there belaying as Andy onsights Too Fat For Tufas 6a. The tide was slowly on the rise and the shelf was getting more and more wet from the waves. It was more exciting belaying than climbing I think. At least it was for me when belaying Sam. When she was at about the fourth bolt, a HUGE wave pounded over the top of the rocks and drenched me and the rope utterly, while the group looked on from their dry perch just above. Much laughter!

So the verdict on Dolphin Bay for an easier day of climbing by the sea - total winner. 10 out of 10 eh Dave?

Photo Shoot (non climbing)

All photos by Claudia Lopez (check out her website)

We took some portraits the other day in my garage after work and these are the two that I can share! Blue Steel or Magnum, I will never tell. hahaha

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Video: Upskill Climbing Camp 2010 - Kalymnos

Upskill have gone High Definition! So feel free to load it up full screen and enjoy.

Upskill Climbing Camp - Kalymnos 2010 from Upskill Climbing on Vimeo.

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 8 (Arhi, Summertime, Sybelgades)

You thought the trip reports were over? Nah, couple more weeks yet! Please explain? So our first climbing camp finished up a few days ago, and with one day of rest (aka madly editing video until the wee hours -- coming soon), our second group flew in bright eyed and ready to hit the rock.

But first, some introductions. We have Ronsley and Lena, both fairly new to the climbing game, and on the other end of the spectrum is Dave Reeve, who at 60 was climbing well before I was born. Dave's recently ticked his hardest route ever (7b/25) and he and his wife Ruth are both Upskill Kalymnos alumni having joined us on our 2008 trip. Andy is our fifth member and has been climbing 10 years or more. So - quite the mixed bag!

Flying in early gave us time to settle in, and perfect weather lent itself to a swim. A nice way to start the holiday.

Andy, Lena, Ronsley and Dave on day 1

Ruth on the sharp end at Arhi on day 1

After a good night's sleep the crew awakened to another crystal clear day. The discussion topic over breakfast was goal setting for the trip and the difference between process and outcome focus in climbing. We then jumped in the car (and two on a scooter) and headed to the left slabs of Arhi.

There we got stuck into a few of the typical grey slabs to get used to proper footwork and to blow out the cobwebs and have a gradual warmup. Centauro 5c, Ercole 5c and Pares 6a were the routes of choice. The sun then pounced like a street cat avoiding a Fiat Panda, so we bailed to Summertime to beat the heat.

Lena tripled her lifetime lead tally (of 1) with leads of Dorian and July. Dave didn't remember the sequence on the tough Macabi 6b+, but had no problems with it at all (stronger this time from all the core work at Coolum!). Ronsley's effort went into a clean TR of the classic bucket route Ammochohostos Vaselivousa 6a. A top first day.

Our second day dawned a hot one too with bugger all on the Beaufort (translation: no wind), so we made what ended up being a great call and headed to Sybelgades Rocks. And it does! A compact gully with limestone that looks like...well...I'll show you:

Yes, like that. Cool huh? Ghoulish. So, the classic easy(ish) route to do here is Phineus 5c, which is just the most featured and yet least sharp rock you could wish to imagine. Features, all covered in features, with these covered in micro-pockets. Holds galore. Andy onsighted, Lena toproped, Ronsley did both, Ruth flashed it, it was all happening. Dave blitzed up the long and ongoing Climber's Nest 6a with it's cool top overhang, what's more so did Ruth (on lead no less) after an early struggle on toprope.

Andy fell off the final moves of the roof and tech arete Homo Sapiens 6c, but fired it second go after ticking a few hidden holds. Dave got inspired and cruised to two thirds height before taking quite a big, off-balance fall due to a sudden onset of pump and subsequent loss of tension through to the feet in a sketchy section. I gave him a nice soft catch and he's a-ok.

Andy on Homo Sapiens 6c

Andy sunk his teeth into the crag testpiece Ermix, a tough 7a. This route is great, because it has only one shake out point, then it's game on for about 4-5 bolts to the anchors. True test of power endurance. Also ideal for working on our redpointing tactics (ticking holds, re-working sequences, sequence memory, body positions and maximum efficiency movement). No tick, but big learning, which is what this whole thing is about.

Effort of the day though has to go to Ronsley. The route was Carlo Juliani 6a, a near vertical wall route. He was about halfway up when the pump set in. You could see the mental battle that was going on. He called for a take, but the belayer (I forget who that was) refused and everyone yelled encouragement. He pushed through, got the next good hold and was able to clip the next bolt, made it a handful more moves before throwing, not latching the hold, and taking the whip. He came off trying. Nice soft catch. Big thumbs up. [He blogged about the experience] When everything in your head is screaming at you to take the soft option and have a sit, or grab the draw - NOT doing that, and actually giving it 100% and battling on - that is climbing. That is mental toughness. This is what we need to train. And you train it by doing it. As much as you can. I felt a lot of pride today.

Andy onsighting Phineus 5c

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 7 (Finale)

After spending our rest day on a caving adventure, including accessing a supposedly closed cave via a squeeze attempted by only three of seven team members, it was GAME ON for a day of rematches at the crag we'd all like to have in our backyard - Odyssey.

It always seems to be cold when we rock up, so warming up well  and staying warm while on belay is the challenge. Glenn, who has struggled with the cold rock during the warm up's at Odyssey fell off his 6a+ warm up Femio as he had done the previous day, but managed to pull off the redpoint today :) Once warm, he went on to onsight the classic 6b+ Atena. Sheree showed cold was no issue for her with a flash of Atena on top rope.

Owen had a score to settle with his redpoint project Amphora 7b. This pumpy route worked his weaknesses (power endurance) nicely, so was the perfect holiday project. Matt decided to try it with him which was great, as they were able to share beta and get psyched on it together. On his first burn, he fell on the low crux and so did the smart thing, and went bolt to bolt, remembering and solidifying the moves without wasting undue energy. Too many people make the mistake of trying to minimise falls on the route on redpoint day once they've fallen low. No point! Decide if you're training or sending. If you're in sending mode - don't waste any energy!

Matt then had a burn and flashed through the low crux only to pump off up high. That was enough encouragement for Owen who sent it next shot. It was still a good fight though, right through to the super quick anchor clip. Matt rode the wave of sendage and finished it on his second try ("It's so pumpy, there's no kneebars!"). For the tradster Owen, this two day, fifth shot send of a 7b/25 is the longest time he's spent on a route, and his hardest send to date! Imagine what he could climb if he really sunk his teeth into the redpointing game (and we were able to keep him away from his other great loves, football and cricket).

Susy G, still exhausted from her triumphant prize fight of two days ago decided to revist an old dog from the 2008 camp - Itaca 6c+. The route doesn't look much with its slabby start, but it quickly rears into a really steep headwall on mostly big pockets. Notice I say mostly, because there are a couple of brick moves for 6c+. She threw four solid burns into it today and came off the final hard move. A bit of a heartbreaker for sure, but the best thing? She came off trying! Big thumbs up G-Star.

Glenn had buggered his leg muscles a bit in that fall off Trella the other day. So it was props when he decided that - yep - back on the hardest route he's tried - Dafni 7b. Couple of burns and a new highpoint. And here's where I can point out a difference between average climbers and elite climbers. Average climbers who are outcome focussed would see Glenn's effort as a failure (no tick) and hence avoid putting themselves in that situation by trying a hard route. Elite climbers who are process focussed would view Glenn's effort as a breakthrough, and fantastic for both physical and mental training. To really progress, you must learn to love the so called failures. The more "failing" you do, the stronger you get and the more you learn.

The final day of climbing dawned all too soon, and it was the special crag Sybelgades Rocks which played host to a crew with enthusiastic minds, and somewhat war-weary bodies. The drive there is an adventure in itself, but the mighty Matiz made it (most of the way) there in fine style and with limited screaming from the passengers. There's nothing over 7a at the crag, but the routes that are there are of amazing quality, on fluted limestone - very different for Kalymnos. Phineas 5c (pictured below with Glenn leading) would have to be one of the best easy routes on the island. Everyone in the team led it.

I warmed up on the musical 7a Ermix and fell four bolts when a tiny flake I was holding decided to let go while I was clipping (thankfully at my waist). That was funny and unexpected. Sam guided the crew up one of her fave routes on the island, Climbers Nest 6a. Super juggy up slabs and past caves with a final overhang section for spice. We finally all got to see what Sheree was capable of when we suggested she have a top rope on the hardest route at the crag - Ermix 7a. I'd fallen off it, the boys had fallen on it, but (not knowing the grade) she wasn't phased. And on her first try she damn near did it - coming off up high on the crux, a couple of moves from easy ground. It was not far off. She rated it her route of the trip.

I'd taken half the team home while Matt and Susy continued their ticking rampage. I came back to collect them bearing coffees, and promptly fell asleep at the cliff waiting for them to finish up. On our arrival back down at the car I discovered I'd lost the car keys. Noooooo! Back up to the crag for me. Thankfully found them where I'd been lying. Whew.

That night was an extra special final meal at Rita's, and games of Connect 4 and Backgammon at Fatolitis while we swapped stories and the group reflected on great climbs and great experiences shared. Will these guys be back in Kalymnos? I think it's only a question of whether it'll be in 2011 or 2012 :)

Thanks for following our adventures.

Upskill Kalymnos 2010 Climbing Camp #1 (L-R): Lee, Matt, Sam, Sheree, Glenn, Owen, Susy

Stay tuned on the Upskill blog as another five contenders join us shortly to write their own Kalymnos chapters.

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 6 (Grande Grotta rematch)

So, you might remember from the other day that we had a score to settle. There were a few things on the agenda and the crew was rather psyched. Psyched enough to get up earlier (ugh!) and walk up the hill to be the first ones at the crag for our pick of the routes. Get the photographer in position, things are about to start...

Match up's for the day

Glenn vs Trella 40m 7a

Matt vs Ivi 18m 7b

Owen vs DNA 20m 7a+

&

**Title fight in the main arena**

Susy vs Trella 40m 7a

Glenn was up first on Trella. After a few knocks early, he pushed through, only to be knocked out in the fifth round. During the fall he jarred his knee which then began to seize up. After going through to the anchors, he retired hurt - to assume the role of belayer/photog/heckler.

Matt (aka Slab King, Coolum Kid, Kneebar Kid, Little Cactus) decided he'd conserve energy and bolt to bolt his first shot on Ivi. This ensured he had more than enough juice in the tank on the second shot to knock Ivi out, and add it to his scorecard.

I don't know why anyone would have assumed differently, but the Owen vs DNA fight was totally rigged. The slab man looked cool as a cucumber on the 40 degree overhanging route and DNA didn't seem to put up much of a fight at all.

It was at this stage when a nice French family walked up to the crag. Mum, Dad and two boys, 11 and 6. The 11 year old promptly fired off DNA and Ivi while the 6 year old ran around snapping photos for the sponsors with a giant Pentax SLR. After putting the camera down, the 6 year old toproped DNA to clean the gear. The 11 year old then moved on to Aegialis 7c.

Owen: "Well, I know I'm better than a 6 year old French kid, but not as good as an 11 year old French kid. I think I'm about 8 and a half."

But now the main event. In the blue corner, weighing in at 7a and some tens of thousands of kilos... TRELLA!! And in the pink corner weighing in at some number of kilos which cannot be disclosed due to fear and possible litigation... SUSY G!! This my friends was a battle royale. There was no love lost between these old foes. Susy had been on Trella on the 2008 camp and had fallen high on the route. She'd been on it the other day and had a battle. The rematch was today and we'd all gathered to see the result. Long story short, she got knocked out in the first round several times, but then in the second round she got her second wind and climbed all the way to within metres of the anchor before looking very shaky and out of sorts. A herculean effort was expended, and she fought tooth and nail to clip the anchors. It was a huge relief for the onlookers and we couldn't wipe the grim and bloody smile off her face all afternoon. Still feeling adrenalized, she raced around the corner to Afternoon sector and farewelled the nails slab Bye Bye Doc 6c from her dog list.

Other efforts included Glenn and Sheree's clean ascents of the pumpy anti-crack Carpe Diem 6b, my close onsight of the nearly 50m long Joggle & Toggle Extension 7b+, French local guide Simon's 1.5 hour epic onsight attempt of Priapos Extension 8a/+ where he fell within a handful of metres of the top, and various slabbings from 4-6 at Afternoon.

After the battles of the day, the victors were rewarded with chocolate milkshakes, the losers consoled with icepacks. We wrapped up the day with a team viewing of the latest episode of Survivor.

Coming up next... Odyssey rematch!